A Forest in the City: The History of Forest Park

By Robert Matsumura, Contributing Writer

Have you ever hiked through Forest Park and wondered how this vast expanse of wilderness has remained untouched and preserved through decades of change in the Portland Metro area? Who was responsible for this natural treasure enjoyed and revered by generations of residents throughout Oregon and Washington?

If there is any single person we can attribute the concept of Forest Park to, it is most certainly the landscape architect, John C. Olmstead. In 1903, Olmstead envisioned the forested hills of West Portland as an urban park—a natural recreational resource for local residents. Planned in conjunction with the upcoming Lewis and Clark Exposition of 1905, Olmstead recommended that the “romantic wooded hillsides” be preserved as parkland. To the naysayers he argued, “It is true that some people look upon such woods merely as a troublesome encumbrance standing in the way of more profitable use, but future generations will not feel so, and will bless the men who were wise enough to get such woods preserved.” Olmstead could not have been more prophetic.

However, the establishment of Forest Park as we know it today was a long and arduous process. Olmstead’s early conception of an urban park was furthered by efforts of another landscape architect, Edward H. Bennett, in 1912, who argued that “woodland areas are the great life-giving elements in the city.” Not surprisingly, opposition to such a park arose from the economic interests of parties who viewed the forested acreage as vital to their business ventures. Landowners of certain parcels of proposed parkland were engaged in logging the old growth timber and selling it to builders in Portland and nearby Linnton. This logging was so extensive that much of today’s Forest Park consists of second-growth trees, the old growth having been decimated by aggressive timber harvesting.

Another obstacle to the park project was real estate developers. For many years, developers had been eager to take advantage of the stunning views from the Tuality Mountains (as the hills were sometimes referred to at the time). However, housing development in the Portland hills had proved costly and challenging. Early attempts at terracing the steep hillsides had been unsuccessful, and in fact had left the area unstable for future building. Also, gaining access via construction of Leif Erickson Drive proved far more expensive than projected. When the road (now named Hillside Drive) which ran from Germantown Road to Portland was finally completed, the tax assessment to fund it was so expensive that hundreds of acres along the roadway were forfeit to the city for unpaid taxes. 

During the Depression of the 1930s, land that would eventually become part of Forest Park was turned over to the city due to the inability of landowners to pay the property taxes. So severe was the economic crisis at the time, that by the mid-1930s at least 2500 acres of privately held land was surrendered to the city due to foreclosures. 

It was not until the 1940s, however, that an organized plan for Forest Park actually materialized. Robert Moses, City Planner and prior Commissioner of Parks for New York, hired by Edgar Kaiser (son of the famous industrialist, Henry Kaiser) in concert with Portland Area Postwar Development Committee, was tasked with creating a plan for the city in the wake of World War II. It was Moses’ recommendation that the forested acres now in the city’s control be turned into a park, which launched the first official study into the feasibility of such a project. The study, carried out by the Portland City Club, determined that the proposed land was too steep for farming, extensively logged, and unfeasible for housing developments, thereby concluding the only suitable use for the land was as a park. 

The Portland City Club formally recommended the land be designated as a city park in 1945. After discussions by the City Club, Mazamas, and local politicians, it was determined that the creation of an organization dedicated to the development of the park was in order. Thus was born the Forest Park Committee of Fifty, headed by retired member of the U.S. Forest Service, Thornton Munger. The “Fifty” was comprised of representatives from forty different local civic groups, and ten “at-large” members from a variety of organizations ranging from Girl Scouts and Women’s Forum, to Portland Chamber of Commerce. Forest Park was formally dedicated on September 25, 1948. The Committee of Fifty continued to support and promote the park, evolving into the Forest Park Conservancy, which carries out this mission today. Official management and administration of Forest Park is now handled by the tri-county governing agency, Metro, which continues to acquire land in and around the park as there are still privately owned tracts of land within the park’s boundaries, as well as maintain the integrity of the forest and protection of wildlife.

Today, Forest Park comprises 5,170 forested acres all within city limits. It is approximately one mile wide and eight miles long and provides a verdant backdrop to Portland’s west side. More than 110 species of birds and 62 mammal species make their home in Forest Park, including Great Horned Owls, Ospreys, Roosevelt Elk, and Northern Flying Squirrels. A number of small tributaries of the Willamette River flow through the park—Balch Creek with its resident population of trout, and Miller Creek which supports sea-run species such as Coho Salmon. 

More than 70 miles of trails wind through Forest Park. The longest, Wildwood Trail, starts in Washington Park near the Zoo and stretches 27 miles. The trail passes famous Portland attractions such as Pittock Mansion, the Portland Japanese Garden, and Audubon Society’s wildlife sanctuary. Along the trail near Balch Creek is the Stone House— sometimes called the Witch’s Castle. Built in 1929 by the Bureau of Parks as a toilet pavilion and storage facility, it was abandoned in 1962 after severe damage from the Columbus Day Storm. Some have described the ruins as “Tolkien-esque,” and a local journalist once wrote, “just try not to get spooked when you stumble upon the ominous stone house.”

So the next time you’re itching to get outdoors for a hike, but don’t have the time or inclination to leave town, remember Forest Park, Portland’s very own nature preserve conveniently located minutes from your own front door.