The Core of Cider

A centuries-old tradition with a distinctly autumn flavor

By Robert Matsumura, Active Media

Few things evoke autumn like apple cider. Whether served cold at an orchard, steaming hot with cinnamon and cloves, or poured from a bottle with a little alcoholic kick, cider seems the perfect accompaniment to crisp afternoons, colorful leaves, and warm cozy sweaters. But our affinity for cider is anything but a modern tradition. It stretches back centuries — and, in some ways, thousands of years.

From Ancient Apples to Medieval Orchards

The ancestors of today's domesticated apples originated in Central Asia, gradually making their way westward along ancient trade routes. Mankind has been cultivating apples in Europe as far back as the Neolithic and Bronze Ages.

Exactly when people discovered that pressed apple juice could be fermented is unknown, but cider was well established in medieval Europe. The Normans brought sophisticated orchard and cider-making traditions from northern France to England after the Norman Conquest of 1066. By the 12th century, cider was widely produced throughout southern England, and along with ale, had grown to be a popular drink in pubs.

The basic process was beautifully simple: harvest apples, crush them, press out the juice, and allow naturally occurring yeast to turn the fruit's sugars into alcohol. Unlike many alcoholic beverages, it was as simple to make as it was to enjoy.

Cider Crosses the Atlantic

By the 17th century, European settlers had brought domesticated apples to North America and the fruit thrived throughout the colonies. Orchards were a common sight throughout the countryside. Colonial cider, however, wasn't usually the sweet, cloudy beverage sold at today's farm stands. In the 18th century, fermented cider — what Americans today call “hard cider”— was an everyday drink in many households. The Smithsonian's National Museum of American History notes that a typical middling colonial family of six might consume about 90 gallons a year.

In early America, “cider” ordinarily meant fermented apple juice. Fresh, unfermented juice certainly existed, especially immediately after pressing, but without refrigeration or modern pasteurization it would naturally begin fermenting fairly quickly.

Even Johnny Appleseed played a part in the story. The real Johnny — Massachusetts-born nurseryman John Chapman — planted apple nurseries across the expanding American frontier during the early 1800s. While many of his apples weren't particularly good for eating, they were well-suited for cider.

From Everyday Drink to Autumn Treat

With the increasing popularity of beer during the 19th century, and the onset of Prohibition in the 1920s, America's hard-cider tradition began to severely decline. Yet the apple itself never lost its hold on the American palate. Over time, cider was reinvented. Sweet, unfermented apple cider became associated with orchards, harvest festivals, roadside farm stands, and family outings. And with the addition of cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves, and served hot, the old agricultural drink was reborn as an autumn tradition across America. 

Today, both sweet and hard cider enjoy a place at the fall table. Whether enjoyed fresh from an orchard press or warmed with spices on a chilly evening, a glass of cider carries with it centuries of tradition, linking the autumns of the past with the autumns we celebrate today.